Notes on: the deconstructed blazer
Our project with the deconstructed suit is to make a piece that takes traditionally premium details and reconstitutes them in a contemporary suit. Both the trousers and jacket are wearable in their own right, merging time-honoured craftsmanship with modern design.
ON THE INSIDE
Historically, men’s suits have been constructed with a layer of canvas underneath the fabric shell - this holds the shape of the suit, keeps it from sagging, and over time conforms to your body’s shape. We’ve kept our jacket half-canvassed in the front to retain these benefits without it becoming rigid or too heavy for warm weather.
The lapel has the traditional touch of a felt under-collar to retain its shape but the reveer has a slim and sharp cut for a contemporary aesthetic. Across all the details on the suit we’ve been careful to conceal any stitching, a modern technique that gives each piece an elegant and minimal appeal.
We’ve gone for the classic men’s cut with our jacket: it darts in to flatter the torso, giving you the definitive male ‘V’ silhouette of broad shoulders and a slim waist. The slim, tailored shape continues in the trousers, which have a tapered fit that ends at the ankle – ideal for wearing with formal shoes.
This season we’ve used a wool-blend basket weave, focusing on a fabric that is robust enough for daily wear, but not too heavy for summer use. The lattice from the weave creates a layered, multi-tone indigo colour with greys and light blues that emerge the closer you look.